![]() ![]() You're best advised - and wise to invest in getting one of the programs cited. Like I said, handling's a little more complicated than "which arm" as applies to retrievers. All of which, you, the handle r, need to know when to give. Hand signals themselves have gradients for straight backs, angled backs, overs, literal casts, verbal casts, silent casts, etc., and then there are no-arm backs, both arm backs, side-step backs, etc. That often signifies a dog lacking in confidence for what you've asked of it - either when it's going for a mark or running a blind retrieve. There are programs that teach you how to impart this and explain why good handling's reliant on a complete program rather than saying "My dog will take hand signals." If your dog (retriever) is looking back at you for help (hand signals) without the whistle command bringing it to a stop, chances are it's popping. Handling is a little more complicated than "which arm" - first of all, retrievers are usually handled only when they're running at full speed and whistled to a complete stop, at which time they then turn and face you, the handle r, awaiting the "hand signal" or cast. When we first began hand signals i kept a small treat in my hand for her to follow my hand motions more thoroughly.we will be working on casting a little later, its seems to be the most difficult of the hand signals.i think there are a number of hand signals that can be used, use whatever you feel comfortable with and good thĪndrew, congratulations on your pup. SIT.i hold my arm at my side with my hand pointing down and open palm over the dogs face and then over her head, she sits everytime STAY/WHOA.with my arm straight out in front of me i hold one hand open as if telling her to stopĭOWN.i lower my hand with palm facing the floorĬOME.i hold my left arm out straight, move my arm in front and touch my right shoulder with my left hand (slow at first and then quickly when she gets it) But he gets confused if there is no thrown object that he could run to and only takes a few steps or runs straight to me.We started hand signals after our GSP pup new the verbal commands very well.as you said i think it depends on the pup but i also think the younger the better as soon as the verbal command is understood, unless you have a deaf pup then obviously hand signals are introduced immediately. Now I'd like to switch to a mode where I command him to run, and only after he runs 10-15 meters, I throw the ball to him and he catches it in the air. ![]() My pup already got pretty good at it telling between left and right, either when I throw two balls or walk to both sides and pretend I'm hiding them - he runs to the one I point to. I found instructional videos on teaching these signals, and they involve throwing objects to let the dog associate the signals with directions. I like that the dog needs to focus heavily on the owner while also getting some physical exercise. I'm trying to tire out my adolescent springer spaniel, and I found this video where someone is using a whistle and hand signals to direct his pup around a large field. Notable WIKI pages:įor content relating to the physical care of dogs, try our sister subreddit, /r/DogCare. Please flair your posts using its flair link (not, and so on)! See our flair guide for help. In particular, please note that recommending the use of aversives like pain, startle, fear, or intimidation to train dogs is not permitted here. Posts and comments that don't follow these guidelines will be removed. Please read our rules and posting guidelines before posting or commenting. FiltersĪll | Remove Filter Academic Announcement Brags Community Criticism Welcome Discussion Equipment Help Industry Resource Update Posting Guidelines: ![]() If your training is not fun and effective, or if you need additional help, then please find a certified trainer for assistance. The advice here is not a replacement for professional help. This is a forum on dog training and behavior that focuses on a least intrusive, minimally aversive approach.
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